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Parapoly
Sedge
By Hans van Klinken
Parapoly Sedge
Black/Grey, side view
In
the beginning, it seems that other people had much more success
with this pattern than I had myself. The Para Poly Sedge I
developed just a few weeks after I made my first Klinkhamer
special and this fly had a really bad start. Although, I
specifically design this fly for a river which abounds with
large sedges, I never got the chance to test it in any objective
way. In the years that I visit that particular river there was
so much water that the fishing was hardly effective. The wading
was difficult -even dangerous- and the best pools were
completely flooded. Fish were almost impossible to spot. They
were probably the worst conditions in which I ever fished this
place. Whatever the circumstances, however, I still attempt some
fishing, but on that occasion and not surprisingly, without any
success. Every fair fly-fisher must agree that one cannot
condemn a river as poor just because one's first experiment of
it is under poor conditions. I was right because a few years
later, I did very well on that river in much better weather
conditions.
So the Para Poly Sedge
(P.P.S.) stayed in my fly-box for quite a long time without
getting used very much. During trips and in conversations with
other anglers I gave away quite a few flies and a few of these
were PPSs. Two years after I first tied it, my attention was
drawn back to the pattern in this way. It happened after I had
received an enthusiastic letter from a fanatical German fly
fisherman. I had given him one or two PPSs to try on
Scandinavian waters. He and his friends had done extremely well
on the fly indeed, he had enjoyed his most successful trip to
Norway and Sweden, thanks largely to this pattern. The PPS had
become his favourite fly by far and to-day he kept a box full of
it in many different colours.
The same year, another
letter reached me reporting favourable words on the pattern,
this time from the U.K.
After that second
letter, I decided to give the fly closer attention and I try it
out intensively in various parts of Europe. This time my own
results were much better. Most spectacular of all, I did
particularly well on grilse and sea trout in small Norway
rivers. I even got some good success for seatrout during coastal
fishing in estuaries at the Norwegian coast!
The fly must be fished
in the water-film, with the polypropylene yarn wing above the
surface. The fly float very well and can be fished in drag-free
drifts and with upstream retrieving techniques. The parachute
hackle in front give some special attraction to this fly and
leave a nice wake if the right retrieving speed will be used.
During the years I also found out that some success can be
obtain when the fly is fishing just under the surface during an
upstream retrieve. Then I usual start with a down-stream drift
and fish the fly back just under the surface. A deadly methode
for many fish spieces.
Parapoly Sedge
Black/Grey, side view
Parapoly Sedge
Black/Grey, top view
Parapoly Sedge
White/Orange, side view
Parapoly Sedge
White/Orange, top view
Parapoly Sedge
White/Tan, side view
Parapoly Sedge
White/Tan, top view
Pattern
Hook: Partridge E1A size
12-14.
Thread: Danville's Spiderweb.
Body: Fly rite Poly dubbing in the following colours:
Light tan, dark tan, rusty olive, medium brown and golden olive.
Wing: Wapsi's poly-yarn: white, cream, dark brown or
black.
Hackle: Good quality: light ginger or blue dun Parapoly
Sedge.
Tying sequence
1. Place hook in the
vice and wrap entire shank with tying thread. Secure Poly-yarn
from the middle to the hook eye, leaving about three centimetre
outside the hook. Tie in a good quality hackle, in the same
direction as the wing (i.e., with the feather extending
forwards), and take the thread back to the hook bend.
2. Dub the thread with
with FlyRite poly dubbing of whatever chosen colour.
3. Wind a nicely tapered
body up the tie point of the poly yarn and hackle.
4. Now turn the hook in
the vice, so that the shank is vertical, with the bend
uppermost. Grasping the tuft of poly yarn, wind several turns of
thread around the base of the poly yarn, creating a rigid
wingbase on which to wind the hackle.
5. Now wind the hackle
around the base of the poly yarn, taking each successive turn
closer to the hook shank (i.e., to the left for a right handed
tier). This ensures a compact well compressed hackle.
6. Pulling the hackle
tip to the left, secure it with a few turns of spiderweb (around
the base of the wing), tight in between the wind hackle and
body, using your whip finiser. Trim away the waste hackle tip,
but do NOT cut your thread.
7. Return the hook to
the normal position in the vice. Now, carefully groom all the
hackle fibres forwards, then pul the poly yarn wing backwards.
Tie down the wing just behind the hackle, as shown, and tie off
using a whip finisher. Apply some lacquer to both these last
windings/whipfinish and to the little "wing case" you have
created. Finally, trim the poly yarn wing to a lengt level with
the bend of the hook.
Text and fly by
Hans van Klinken ©
Photographs:
Hans
Weilenmann ©
(The Parapoly
Sedge is inspired by the classic Swedish fly
Rackelhanen,
originated by Kenneth Boström)
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